Amsterdam to ČÊĂń±Š”ä, by rail, boat, bus and bike
Climate researcher eschews air travel on 8,000-mile âcommuteâ to take up INSTAAR position
Climate scientist Joep van Dijk was excited when he received a postdoctoral appointment to the Institute of Alpine and Arctic Research at the ČÊĂń±Š”ä.
But the good news also presented a conundrum: Concerned about his personal carbon footprint, he didnât want to fly from his home in Amsterdam to take up the new job. According to some studies, a round-trip flight from New York to Europe can create a warming effect equivalent to 2 or 3 tons of carbon dioxide per person, or nearly 16 percent of the average Americanâs annual carbon output.
âI thought, âI have three months, letâs see if I can get to Colorado without flying,ââ says van Dijk, who specializes in paleo-oceanography and paleoclimatology.
Heâd soon come up with an ambitious plan: Heâd sail across the Atlantic, then bike from his U.S. port of call to Boulder. And thatâs just what he did, in 87 days.
âI arrived by bike in Boulder Sunday, March 31,â he says. âMonday was my first day of work.â
The time and effort to make his more-than-8,000-mile journey was considerable, but worth it, van Dijk says.
âWhen I arrived at my new house in Boulder, I met a woman and the first thing she asked was, âHow much did you grow throughout your trip?â Itâs such a good questionâ â and unlike the usual questions he got along the way, he says. âThe answer is that I have grown as much as I would have in five yearsâ time. I would not underestimate the personal development you may experience if you take a slower way to travel.â
More than anything, van Dijk wanted his slow-boat-and-bike trip to serve as an example.
âItâs not that difficult. It takes a bit of energy, but it will make you pretty happy in the long term to know that you didnât contribute to the (climate change) problem,â he says. âAnd Iâm pretty sure that within a couple of decades, all these things Iâm doing will become normal.â
He took video and photos along the way, and is now crowdfunding to raise funds to produce a titled, âCarbon Dioxide? Thatâs Not Right!â
âInitially, I didnât want to make a movie of it,â van Dijk says. Then his sister, Puck van Dijk, gave him a present for his PhD graduation on one condition: âIâll give you this drone, but only if you document the entire trip.â
Van Dijk started his odyssey by searching online for someone to sail with. Thatâs where he met Captain Robert Bachmann, a German man planning to sail his roughly 40-by-15-foot catamaran, Namakaânamed after a Hawaiian sea goddessâfrom the Canary Islands to the Caribbean.
Van Dijk had participated in a âcouple of sailing campsâ growing up in the Netherlands, but was no seasoned sailor. In order to gauge how he might fare on a three or four week transatlantic journey, Bachmann agreed to meet him in Spain for a six-day shakedown cruise to the Canary Islands.
âIâd never done something like this before,â Van Dijk says. âWe wanted to see if it would be a match, a sort of trial, for seasickness and things like that.â
Van Dijk left Amsterdam by train Jan. 2 for Almeria, Spain, where he met Bachmann. Sailing through the straits of Gibraltar to Las Palmas, on the island of Gran Canaria, he passed his shakedown practicum with flying colors.
âHe took me on for two reasons. He liked the idea of a documentary, and was a documentary maker himself. And if need be, he was capable of doing the crossing himself, without help,â van Dijk says.
The Namaka embarked from Las Palmas with Bachmann, van Dijk and two German passengers aboard on Jan. 18. They encountered mostly smooth sailing over the next several weeks, except for some doldrumsâareas of low or no windâthat forced the captain to alter his route, and arrived in Barbados on Feb. 10.
When the other two passengers decided to leave the expedition earlier than anticipated, Bachmann asked van Dijk to crew for another couple of weeksâ sailing around the Caribbean, from St. Lucia to George Town, capitol of the Bahamas.
âThat was also a very nice and interesting part of the trip,â van Dijk says. âItâs a lot of work to manage a big boat with just two people.â
From George Town, he took three ferries to Florida, where he boarded a red-eye Greyhound bus for New Orleans. There, he bought a bike and began the final, 1,400-mile leg of his journey on March 11. Three weeks later, he showed up at INSTAAR to start his new position researchingâas he put it in lay termsââHow did the earthâs marine ecosystem respond to the meteorite that wiped out the dinosaurs?â
Van Dijk has been interested in climate science since high school, where he designed a solar panel with an eye toward fueling his school through solar energy. Undergraduate research in Spain showed him the importance of the geological record in understanding climate issues. As a graduate student, he worked in Switzerland helping to reconstruct the terrestrial climate of the early Eocene period.
His increasing knowledge about climate change inspired van Dijk to begin making changes to his lifestyle. He became a vegetarianâa 2016 by scientists at the University of Oxford found that widespread adoption of a vegetarian diet would reduce carbon emissions by as much as 63 percent, and a vegan diet by as much as 70 percentâand began to balk at having to fly to conferences and do field work.
Van Dijk recognizes how deeply ingrained luxuries such as air travel and meat-based diets have become in the lives of many Americans. But, he says, itâs possible to make changes incrementally, such as by starting with a âmeatless Mondayâ then increasing the number of meatless days. And he believes that âslow travelâ is ultimately more rewarding than winging it to a beach for a week and returning, exhausted and harried.
âMy own trip took 87 days. There is a lot of stuff to be seen between Boulder and the Mediterranean,â he says. âIf you take a plane to the other side of the world, apart from the fact that itâs completely unnatural and you have no time to adapt, you also miss everything in between.â
A transition to slower travel would require fundamental shifts in how Americans work, he acknowledges, including shorter hours and more vacation time. But thatâs all to the good, van Dijk says.
âIn Scandinavia, there are 30-hour work weeks, and productivity actually goes up,â he says. âAnd especially in the U.S., we must leave behind the two-week (vacation time); it must become at least six weeks.â
In the end, he says, taking personal action to mitigate climate change will make us happier.
âAs a geologist, Iâm trained to think in terms of 50 or 60 million years. Of course, I care about my own life, and I take pleasure in life once in a while,â he says.
âBut when you look at your own life and try to make sustainable choices, that will make you happy. Because what is the point of personal growth and happiness if you cannot pass it on? Your grandchildren wonât be able to experience the same things as you, and I think thatâs very selfish.â