彩民宝典

Italian fashion icon Giorgio Armani has his suits. German designer Karl Lagerfeld touted the 鈥渓ittle black dress.鈥� 彩民宝典 researcher Fiona Bell, however, prefers clothing made with the help of a warm glass of kombucha鈥攖he slightly-sour beverage brewed by fermenting tea with sugar.听

Right now, the researcher is touring the Living Matter Lab at 彩民宝典鈥檚 ATLAS Institute. Tucked into corners and under tables in the lab are mason jars and plastic storage containers filled with brown slurries. They smell like vinegar and have a thin layer of slimy, almost skin-like material growing on top. Brewers call this film a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY), or 鈥渢he mother.鈥�

Bell, who earned her doctorate in creative technology and design from 彩民宝典 this spring, does research in the field of biodesign, which sits at the intersection of biology, food science, materials engineering and more.听

In this case, she and her colleagues are growing their .听

The researchers harvest and dry the SCOBY to make a material called 鈥渒ombucha leather,鈥� a process that can take weeks from start to finish. To show what it can do, they crafted a 鈥渂reastplate鈥� shirt. The garment looks like something Spartacus might have worn in ancient Rome.

鈥淚t鈥檚 definitely different,鈥� Bell said. 鈥淏ut I think there鈥檚 an inherent beauty to this breastplate.鈥�

It also comes with a series of embedded LED lights that flick on every time you give the wearer a hug.听The group described its experiments in February at the in Warsaw, Poland.

Bell noted that kombucha chic might not be everyone鈥檚 cup of tea. But she sees the project as an antidote to 鈥渇ast fashion,鈥� the modern embrace of clothing that can be produced quickly and on the cheap, and just as easily thrown away.听

Her work is fashion at the pace of bacteria and yeast.

鈥淚t鈥檚 slow fashion,鈥� she said. 鈥淚t taught me to let go because it was a living thing. Sometimes, imperfections would form in the leather like bubbles or dark spots where clusters of yeast would gather. I had to accept that it was the organism bringing its own voice into the design.鈥�

Turning microbes into fashion

Bell didn鈥檛 set out to be a fashion designer. She鈥檚 a mechanical engineer by training, and the closest she came to making clothing was knitting scarfs.听

As an undergrad at Santa Clara University in California, however, she learned how to brew her own kombucha (a hobby her former roommates hated because it made the apartment smell). It was her advisor at 彩民宝典, Mirela Alistar, an assistant professor who leads the Living Matter Lab, who tipped her off to all kombucha could do.

鈥淪he said, 鈥榶ou know, you can make stuff with the SCOBY,鈥欌�� Bell said. 鈥淢y mind was blown. Up until that point I had thought it was just a waste product of the fermentation process.鈥�

The team isn鈥檛 the first to make clothes out of kombucha leather. Designer Suzanne Lee debuted a line of 鈥淏ioCouture鈥� bomber jackets, which she crafted using similar materials. For more than $2,000, you can even buy a Stella McCartney Frayme Mylo shoulder bag, a faux-leather accessory made from mycelium, the root-like structures of many fungi.

Bell explained that as kombucha ferments, the microbes inside naturally produce the SCOBY, a gooey layer that鈥檚 rich in cellulose. If you scoop out that slime and treat it with olive or coconut oil, the SCOBY will dry into a sheet that鈥檚 less than a millimeter thick but surprisingly hardy. It looks and feels a lot like animal leather.

In all, it took Bell and her colleagues over three months to make their kombucha leather breastplate, laying it down strip by strip.

鈥淚 learned that I have to slow down to the pace of the organism,鈥� Bell said. 鈥淚 have to wait for four weeks for a layer to grow, and once I have a layer, I need to know exactly how I鈥檓 going to use it.鈥�

Thinking slow

The team also gave their seemingly ancient breastplate a modern twist: The researchers coated one of their layers of SCOBY in activated charcoal, a biodegradable substance that can register and carry faint electrical signals like a metal conductor. Touch that part of the breastplate with your bare skin, and a series of LED lights embedded in the material will glow to life. 听

鈥淚f you brush up against the breast plate briefly, the LEDs will give off a dim little spark,鈥� Bell said. 鈥淏ut if you give someone a big, tight hug, they get really bright and their glow lingers.鈥�

And, unlike a tank top from H&M, the shirt鈥檚 material will degrade in soil in about a month. (You can also easily remove and reuse all of the electronics, Bell said).听

The engineer and designer hopes the project will help people reimagine their relationship with clothing. You never know what you can discover, in other words, if you only slow down.

鈥淥ne of the coolest things about kombucha is its accessibility,鈥� Bell said. 鈥淎nyone can brew their own kombucha. You can grow your own wallet in a month.鈥澨�